By Neil Parkinson

Published in French Property News, August 2004

 

 

Thinking of buying property in the south of France? Consider the Cévennes, a mountainous region of outstanding natural beauty lying between the Massif Central and the plains of the Languedoc and dotted with a myriad of delightful properties.

For millenia man has crossed this natural barrier. His traces have been left in the form of drailles, footways worn into the landscape, and into the hearts of many locals. Alain Gas, a photographer and writer is an expert on the matter. His book "Journal de transhumance" relating to his crossing the Cévennes with shepherds in the 1970s is poetic reading. He explains that due to the variety of landscapes crossed and it's brevity - only three or four days are necessary to walk the migration path that for millenia has raised herds from the plains of the Languedoc to the summits of the Cévennes and the Causses, the vast limestone plateaux - the route is an ideal initiation for the apprentice traveller. The local GRs (Grandes Randonnées), crossed frequently along this tour of the Cévennes now trace out in hiking paths what were these migration pathways.

And so to the beginning of our tour. The Pic St. Loup, an abrupt rocky outcrop, stands out like a sore thumb in coastal Languedoc, south of the Cévennes. It is a landmark for geologers and sportsmen alike, offering itself for the practice of rock climbing, hiking, cycling, or indeed gliding - a club sits in the plain beneath the vast relief. At a handful of miles from the bustling sunbathed city of Montpellier, these lands are indeed interesting. In the garrigues, vegetation is rich with wild flowers and the landscape is punctated with the Mediterranean trademark cypress tree, olive trees, cactii and various tropical species. The climate is propice for the cultivation of vines and fortunately for both traveller and local inhabitant, the wines of the Languedoc are tasty and remain relatively cheap.

 

Traces of man's existence in these landscapes can be largely summarised by the existence of mas, the traditional house that follows general patterns in its construction only taking on particular traits according to situation, altitude and the local geology. Its construction was limited to materials in situ, hence its capacity to blend sweetly into the landscape. In the garrigues there are delightful mas eagerly awaiting readoption by new and caring owners.

 

Travelling northwards from the Pic St. Loup one hits the border of the Cévennes National Park at Ganges. On proceding inward to St. André de Majencoules, one can witness some excellent examples of man's mastery of these sloped lands. The bancels, terraces that from a distance resemble giant stairways, were the basis for cultivating the land. In the same sector, some spectacular views can be had in the valleys through which flow the Rieutord and Vidourle. Mas in this sector can be acquired at varying prices, according to isolation, proportions, state of repair, and the amount of adjoining land. In this sector a very authentic three bedroom mas with vaulted cellars and outbuildings can be acquired for £110 000.

 

Westwards, one can pause in Nant, a fortified city that celebrates it's position in history as an important centre of Catholicism. Nant sits at the entry of the Gorges de la Dourbie, less well known than those of the Tarn, but nonetheless beautiful and very unspoilt. However before heading up these gorges, a stop should be made where mountains meet the plateaux standing at high altitude (generally 500-800m) to admire the picturesque village of Cantobre. These plateaux lie between the Massif Central and the Cévennes, and frequently come to abrupt ends. Cantobre is literally attached to the side of a plateau.

 

The Gorges de la Dourbie climb upwards to the Col de la Sereyrède, at 1299m, a preliminary to the Mont Aigoual, the summit of the Cévennes at 1567m. The col meets a migratory pathway at this point, now flagged as the GR7 hiking path. Before proceding to the Mont Aigoual, a stop is recommended at the astonishing site of the Abîme de Bramabiau. Again, the plateau comes to an abrupt end and from a giant slit in the mountain emerges - at certain periods of the year - a torrent of tremendous strength.

 

An observatory is stationed at the summit of the Mont Aigoual, which in addition to keeping an eye on the heavens, houses the regional meteorological station. Excellent weather in store? Seems so, so after coming to terms with views that on certain days of the year stretch all the way eastward to Mont Blanc, and south-westward to the Pyrenees, further stunning views can be had along the Corniche des Cévennes, a route that joins the crests of the Cévennes from Florac (Lozère) to St. Jean du Gard (Gard).

 

The Corniche is a road built by Louis XIV in the early 18th century to assist his troops in crossing the mountainous barrier and wage a religious war. As it meanders down from the causses, the scenery opens up either side of the road giving a certain aviatory experience. An extraordinary construction with wonderful medieval features (tower, fireplaces and vaulted ceilings) requiring full restoration is on sale at proximity to Florac for £126 000.

 

A day filled with sweet scents, plentiful open panorama and sunshine becomes complete at the Mas de Caderle situated in the vicinity of St. Jean du Gard, offering bed and breakfast accommodation and very palatable evening meals for weary walkers and bottom ache ridden car drivers alike. The proprietors are Parisians, who in the mid-1990's purchased their mas after a two year search throughout France for their dream property that could serve to accommodate travellers. Not only did they find a property with great character and potential, but one in a wide valley offering a generous panorama.

 

The Mas de Caderle is a typical example of the local architecture, showing the distinctive signs of the successive addition of floors and the juxtaposition of different buildings, with a particular emphasis on building upwards, rather than broadly. The interior is uncharacteristically confusing at first, given the choices made during it's restoration, but this all adds to the character of the building.

 

Mas in this area are generally built from schist, a slate type stone, and the timberwork from chestnut trees. Due to the need to not impinge on cultivatable ground, when prosperity permitted, successive generations built an upper floor, or an additional wing in accordance with their needs. Mas shaped in the form of an L or with interior courtyards are the most frequent. A stable and barns were built on the ground floor half buried underground beneath vaulted ceilings, and living quarters on the first floor. A clède, an outbuilding originally serving to dry chestnuts accompanies the main house.

 

The construction of mas on slopes implied that entrances could be made into the building on all floors. Some mas have what may seem today as unnecessary military features, observation towers and arrow slits for instance. A delightful construction of this type set at an altitude of 600m (2000ft) is currently for sale in the region for a not unreasonable £170 000.

 

Anduze, a quaint old town with winding streets, marks the edge of the Cévennes and our descent to the lower plains of the Languedoc. From here come the many glazed vases that adorn among other places, Montpellier's old centre. Anduze is welcoming and stands with the Cévennes as an enticing backdrop. Properties in the vicinity of Anduze include mas of various shapes, sizes and states of repair. With £130 000 you can acquire a spacious, semi-restored mas in the form of a U with a central courtyard adorned with a delightful array of arches.